Sep
2

How to embed an IR emitter V 2.0

My last article about embedding emitters glossed over most of the steps and showed off a Xantech product that is no longer available. This update has a lot more detail and describes what to use now that the Xantech Pro product is no longer available.

Back of the cable box.

Security Sticker. Once you remove the back the security sticker gets peeled leaving part of it behind. I used to worry about voiding warranty or getting in to trouble. Then one day i realized that the cable company isn’t organized enough to police the scary security sticker.

Our clients call us for service so i get to the cable box first. If its defective i remove my emitter and put the cable box out for the cable guy when he drops off the replacement. Cable guy and I never see each other again.

A lot of cable & satellite boxes have security screws of some sort. Most are simple like the ones in the photo (star with pin in the middle) but some are more elaborate. Get yourself a set of “Security Bits”. Most kits will have what you need. In some cases ive had to google “security bit for_____ model cable box” because they have an even less common screw head.

Cover is off. Most slide right off. Some may have a clip somewhere.

Some devices have ribbons like this. If they are good quality ribbons i remove them. If they are very thin/fine conductors i might leave the ribbon in place. This makes the rest of the work difficult but not impossible and avoids breaking the ribbon.

Front clip removed. There are always plastic clips all the way around the front clip. I start at one end and work my way around releasing each one until the front clip is free.

Close up of board inside front clip. The screws have to be removed. Note where you take these out of. You will often find more screw locations than screws. This board had 5 screw holes but only 4 screws. 1 at each end and 1 on each side of the front panel buttons. The front panel button area is important to support so that button pushes dont pop the board back.

There are usually clips also. You can use your finger or a small slot screw driver to release them.

The other side of the board. You can see the IR receiver on the left hand side. The shiny black/dark red/purple receiver with the metal X over it. Most IR receivers look just like this. If you dont see anything like this you will need to look at the plastic part of the front clip for a “window”. This should help indicate the location of the IR receiver.

Xantech Emitter. Any emitter will work. This is what i had so this is what i used.

Cracking the shell off. The old xantech emitters were much easier to open. These take a steady hand and lots of patience. I use a razor knife to score each of the 4 sides of the diamond. Then i push the blade in at the bottom while working the two pieces apart. Once i get it separated enough i will use needle nose pliers to start pulling it off.

Eventually the bottom comes off.

Be very careful removing the emitter from the shell. The two conductors can short out if you twist/bend the wire too much.

At this point i look at the back of the chassis for a vent or some sort of entry point. If there is a large enough opening you can thread the emitter through intact. In this case all i found was these tiny slots. I used a small screw driver to bend on to the side to make room for the emitter wire.

Inside of bent slot.

Hot glue gun time. I heat the glue gun up just enough to squeeze glue out. I immediately unplug it at this point. I squeeze a very small drop on to the board. I like to keep it away from the receiver so that it doesn’t melt down under it or around it. This is so i can easily remove the hot glue later if i need to.

I touch the IR emitter to the dab of hot glue. It usually sets very quick. Placement of the IR emitter depends on the component. This component had an open area between the board and the front clip. Some have plastic tube shaped pieces that fit over the IR receiver. They force you to put the emitter in the tube so that the board and clip can be put back together.

Always be aware of how the board and front clip fit together. Make sure that your emitter wire doesn’t get in the way of buttons or screws.

Board is clipped back in place. Emitter wire is threaded through an existing opening.

Front clip reinstalled. Thread the emitter though an open slot. Reinstall the ribbon. Make sure ribbon is fully seated.

Pull the slack out of the wire and make a small bundle. I always try and avoid any moving parts like drive trays or stuff that has heat sinks.

At the back i put a dab of hot glue by the slot. Keep in mind that the glue gun has been cooling and you are adding this dab about 2 minutes after unplugging the glue gun. This helps make it easier to remove. Hot glue and slotted metal/plastic are very difficult to separate.

Letting the glue get cool makes it less likely to push far through the slots. Push the emitter into the dab of glue. This will hold the emitter wire in place so that its not moving back and forth across the rough edge in the metal slot.

You can see that the glue did not squeeze out of the slot.

Since i had to cut the 1/8″ connector off to thread the wire through the small slot…i get to solder. Yay (he says sarcastically). Nothing fancy. Twist wires together.

Tin. Snip about half the length off. Fold to the side. Slide heat shrink over each conductor. Heat. Slide larger heat shrink over both conductors. Heat. Done. Angrily throw soldering gun back in the corner pocket of tool bag.

Install component on rack shelf. This rack is 4 racks over from the control processor so i used 1/8″ extension cables. That is what you see with the white label on it. Emitter connector is yellow.

Rant//

I used to be able to use Xantechs PRO emitters. They had a nice little block that you attached to the shelf or component. Then you used an 1/8″ patch cable to get to the control processor. Like this…

Xantech discontinued the PRO emitter. I heard (from a friend of a friend) that they stopped making it because no one bought them. :(.

May
1

How To Install Heavy Gear When You Are Alone

A guy i worked with named Steve taught me this trick. I had to use it today to uninstall a pair of Monster power units… so i decided to write about it.

Ever find yourself at the wrong end of an amp… trying to struggle to get it in place so you can mount it? I have and it sucks. Not only does it suck… it isn’t good for your arms, shoulders back etc. The weight isn’t the issue, it’s the twisting and leveraging. To solve this all you need is a spare 2U rack shelf. Has to be at least 2U or it usually wont be deep enough. Just install it upside down @ the rack space under the heavy piece of equipment you want to install. Now you have a nice shelf to put the component on while you run your screws in. You will need to remove the feet from the component or make sure to drop the 2U low enough so that the feet can stay on.

It took me about 4 minutes to remove 2 of these units and that includes installing/uninstalling the 2U shelf and putting the ladder away.

May
3

Get rid of the IR bug! Embed your emitters!

Client got a new Blu-ray player today and i decided to snap pics while embedding an emitter inside of it. I have two very good reasons for embedding emitters.

#1. An embedded emitter can’t be knocked off by the clients or their maintenance staff. No more “its not working” phone calls that lead to you wasting half a day driving out to find that the emitter is knocked off or worse.. broken off.

#2. Using the Xantech 283DPRO i can install the emitter on every component before i put them in the rack. Then i have a nice detachable jack for the emitter. Later on when it’s time to service or replace the unit i can totally disconnect the component and easily pull it out of the rack without having to cut zip ties all the way back to the processor to save the emitter.

Another good reason is aesthetics. While it might not make a difference in terms of installation i think it sets us apart from the “other guy”.

Slide show below………….

Jan
0

Cable Schedule – Location Tagging

I saw this video and thought i would share. Everyone has their own system for planning the rough in but i dont think i have seen anyone staple up tags like this guy is doing. I think its a great idea. Lead tech can hit the job site and tag everything. Then the wiremunkys show up and paint by numbers.

I normally mount LV rings everywhere as indicators before wiring begins. Adding the tags will make things move even faster.

Oct
3

How To Configure Crestron Mobile Pro

I found this link at AVSforum.com. Its a great step-bystep article by http://www.xsdesignstudios.com that explains : How to setup an iPhone to control a Crestron system. I wish Crestron would put something like this together for every touchpanel.

Aug
2

For Installers – How to get your clients to perceive you as a professional

Clients are often nervous about having workers in their home but by following a few simple steps you’ll be amazed at how quickly they come to respect you as a worker and feel comfortable with you in their home. The tips below will help you combat your clients worry by taking steps that will put their minds at ease.

These tips are geared towards making the client aware of and confident of your respect for their home. All of it is common sense advice that can be done very easily with little to no extra time or cost to the Custom Installer. In fact it will most likely save you money that would have been lost due to damage or wasted time dealing with the client each time you’re questioned about something.

Drop cloths, Moving Blankets & Shoe Protectors

The first thing you should do at a job is bring in the drop cloths & blankets and put on shoe protectors. Put moving blankets down wherever you’re going to put your tools & parts. They offer more protection than a drop cloth. I also use them anywhere I will be assembling things like a rack or a plasma mount. Put drop cloths down anywhere you will be walking in the home and wear shoe covers while in the home. Take them off when leaving and put them back on when entering the home again. Do not wear them outside then back inside.

If you do this you will have eliminated 90% of the possible damage that could happen during install. More importantly, the client will be 100% confident that you will be careful and that you respect their home. This initial precautionary measure will put them at ease throughout the installation.

Uniforms and Vehicles

Every employee should be driving a clean dependable vehicle that does not have fluids leaking. There should be no multicolored vehicles that have been pieced together at the junk yard. No vehicles that were purchased used with other company logos still on them. No broken windows, no noticeable cosmetic damage. You want every vehicle to look like its part of your fleet.

Everyone should at the very least be wearing a company shirt. If you match the pants and the shirt your employees will look like soldiers. Everyone notices and admires companies that have uniforms.

Tools & parts

All tools & parts should be neatly organized in proper bags, boxes or containers. This makes them easy to carry in to a client’s home. Put them down on the moving blankets and position them neatly all in a row. Make sure lids can be opened without hitting the wall.

You want the client to think “this guy is organized, he is a real professional, and he treats his tools with respect. He will treat my home the same way”.

Always put tools down on a tarp or moving blanket when they are not in your hand being used. Never put your side cutters on the hardwood floor. Never stand your drill up on a counter top.

It does not matter how careful you are with your tools. A client’s first thought when they see your tools on their flooring or counter top or cabinets is “OH MY GOD ITS RUINED”. You don’t want to get blamed for every scratch in the house because you put your side cutters down for a second.

Food, Beverage, Breaks and Smoking

Never keep any food or drink containers in plain sight. Keep them inside a lunch box. If it’s hot out and you’re carrying a water bottle keep it stored inside your tool bag or box. Eat lunch outside of the client’s home. If you brought lunch, eat it in your truck. Don’t let the client see you eating or drinking.

Breaks should be scheduled and designated to a specific area. Breaks taken while working in a finished home should be designated to the control room and the truck. You don’t want anyone to appear to be wasting time or snooping around the home.

Smoking should not be allowed on the way to a job or anytime during a job. The odor is unacceptable to non smokers. It’s on clothing, in the vehicles and can be smelled with every breath taken by the smoker and it can even make its way to products that you are providing. The faint scent of cigarettes can turn the client’s stomach and create a negative image of the employee and the company.

Clean up & Packing Up

Everything has to be cleaned up every day no matter what state the client’s home is in. If you install a TV you should clean up after it the moment you are done mounting it. Do not leave piles of dust lying around all day. All wire & zip tie clippings, all boxes and label backings should be cleaned up and removed from the client’s property at the end of each day. When your client sees the pile of dust and wire clippings they immediately assume you’re going to leave it there. If you forget to go back to the TV that you installed you might forget it so try and clean up as you go to avoid this.

All boxes, tools & parts that are being left on sight should be organized and put away at the end of each work day. Nothing should be left around the house. You want the client thinking “these guys are neat” when they are looking at your stuff at night after you have left. It’s also a good way to keep your tools & parts from walking out the door. Would be thieves are less likely to take a chance of getting caught raiding your whole stash than they would be to sneak a lone TV out the back door.

If you moved a piece of furniture away from a wall to install keystone jacks be sure to put it back even if you have to move it again the next day. That is someone’s bed or night table and it may be getting used when you are not there.

The Benefits & Results

Anyone who doesn’t already practice these methods will be amazed at how quickly the customer perceives you as “different” than the other workers they deal with. There’s not a job that goes by where I don’t get thanked for the care I show in the home. Often the customer comments that we are the only ones that respected their home and wore booties. Another huge benefit of this approach is that when something gets broken, or someone treads mud all over the brand new carpet, we’re the last ones to be suspected. I recall one project I was on where the customer was irate that someone had just gotten mud all over the brand new floors. We were the only workers in the house that weren’t questioned because they owner said “they would never do that, they always wear booties”.

EDIT : Additions.

Gman-north

I would like to add an “Unpacking Section ” to your procedures list. We always remove boxes to the Garage or outside of the house because your work area can get very cluttered with TV boxes, amp boxes etc. I find that if the boxes are removed before the techs install the equipment it keeps their minds clear and free from TAD ( Tech Attention Deficit)….at least for the install….lol

Great tip! Perfect fit for the article! Its nice to do the dirty work out of sight out of mind and keeping the work area less cluttered is always a good thing.
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DHarmonyAV

I make it a rule to only accept water from a client when asked, “can I get you anything?”. And even though the client might say, “help yourself to anything”, they are just being polite and most likely don’t mean it.

I don’t want them holding something over me in the end based on how well they took care of us.

I normally say “no thanks” when offered anything. I know some people try to nice you to death and they say “are you sure? you don’t want anything?” That is when i explain that i make a point to plan meals before and after projects so i don’t have to stop in the middle of the day for lunch. They usually like to hear this and stop trying to give me things :).

You and i talked about this before after the client told us to just “come on over and make yourselves at home”. I think that client actually meant it though :).

The booty boots are an incredible find. One of my pet peeves with typical shoe covers is when wet shoes are going into them. I normally opt for shoes off but when its raining and you have a bunch of guys tracking in water your socks get wet.
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SignatureSV

I don’t even except water from the client. I prefer not to use their bathroom unless we absolutely have to. Every job I go to for a consultation I scope out the closest
fast-food restaurant and plan accordingly in the cost. I remember this from when I was growing up and we had workers in my home and when ever one would “go” my mom would be irate that it stunk the house up.

We do the same thing. Coffee shop in the morning, restaurant at lunch. If you absolutely have to use the clients bathroom ask which one they would like you to use. Its usually a guest house, pool house, basement bath. I have seen morons at job sites using the clients brand new master bath.
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SB Smarthomes

The other thing I’d add to Stamps list is some type of jumper suit for attics and crawls spaces.

I have a pair of Dickie’s coveralls, but have started to use disposable tyvek jump suits because it’s easier just to throw them away after a job (it seemed like the Dickie’s didn’t make it into the wash often enough).

The ones I use are only $3-4 each and have elastic around the arms and legs and a hood to keep your head clean.

Use them like booties… pull one on when you go into the attic or under the house and then slip it back off so you don’t transfer dirt or insulation back in the house.

They also keep your clothes clean so you stay professional looking throughout the day and keep the itchy insulation off!

I saw the photo of the tyvek suit here a couple weeks ago. We have an ‘attic kit’ with headlamp, gloves, goggles, mask, knee pads. I keep them separate in their own case so we know what gear has insulation allover it. I will be adding the tyvek suits now.

Aug
0

Inexpensive Tip For Making Your Wiring Neat

I run into pics of awful wiring all the time. The rack gets installed, shelves, components and it all goes down hill after that because there was no plan for managing cables. Bring some cables out of a single gang box here, big pipe that routes cables to the pool house over there, small pipe out of the base board for the cable company and many other random boxes and pipes. All the cables are coming out at random/different points. Theres no place to terminate or hide unused cables so 1 after another things begin to pile up and the next thing you know.. rats nest.

I have a very simple solution to anyone who doesn’t want to or cant, plan out the wiring ahead of time, but wants to be able to manage cables at the end. Its cheap (apx $10), easy to install (done with a razor knife or keyhole saw) and gives you complete flexibility after drywall.

See pic below. We had a rack going into a cabinet that didn’t exist and wouldn’t exist for a few months. I Ran all the cable down the wall and out of a single gang mud ring. After drywall the mud ring was removed and an access panel put in its place. Its a cheap plastic Home Depot access panel but it gives me the ability to route cables and once the cover goes on the wall looks nice and clean.

We decided to put in patch panels but we could have done anything we wanted. We could have brought the cat5’s out of a hole behind a punch down block or the RG-6 out of a bulk cable plate right to a multiswitch or the speaker cables out at the bottom of the wall so that they would come right across the cable tray for the slide out rack. Extra cables can be rolled up, zip tied and labled and stored inside the wall.

The next step is getting the cable to the equipment in the rack. Check out these articles to see what tools & connectors i use for terminating cables.

Cat5: http://wiremunky.com/?p=6
Coax: http://wiremunky.com/?p=14
Speaker Cable: http://wiremunky.com/?p=18

Using bulk cable to make custom interconnect / patch cables is the only way to truly manage your cables. It eliminates the excess cable from point A to point B allowing you to keep your racks clean and accessible.

Jun
0

Tone Generator Tips

New article @ RemoteCentral with tips and tricks for getting the most out of your tone generator. http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-custom/thread.cgi?19138

Helper

Jun